Leather guide

Horse Culatta is a highly specialised, premium, vegetable-tanned leather derived from the hindquarters of a horse — specifically prized in the luxury, avant-garde, and bespoke footwear industries. It is often described as a bridge between shell cordovan and traditional horsehide, offering a unique, rugged, and highly textured character found in no other material.

Cut from the rear section of the horsehide just above the shell cordovan layer, true culatta is exclusive to equine animals. Each piece carries a combination of dense fibrous shell and the softer surrounding leather — no two hides are alike.

• Texture & Appearance Chaotic, irregular, and deliberately imperfect — areas of smooth glazed shell, raw suede on the reverse, and natural scars and wrinkles that make each piece unique.
• Durability Exceptionally durable with a dense fibre structure. Thickness ranges from 1.4 mm to 2.4 mm, ideal for boots and hard-wearing shoes.
• Temper & Feel Soft, slightly gummy, and flexible despite its durability — conforms well to the foot without sacrificing structure.
• Oil Content High natural oil content produces a pull-up effect — lighter tones appear where the leather is folded — and excellent burnishing capability.
• Patina Develops a deep, lustrous, and sometimes near-metallic patina over time. One of the most characterful leathers for long-term wear.
• Tannage Almost exclusively vegetable-tanned by artisan tanneries in Tuscany, Italy. Finished in a natural, lightly corrected state that highlights the hide's inherent character.

Calf leather is considered one of the highest-quality, most versatile materials in the footwear industry. Because of the animal's youth, it is prized for its exceptionally fine, tight grain and soft texture — a combination that allows for a superior, long-lasting product. It is the benchmark against which all other leathers are measured.

The preferred choice for high-end, classic footwear, calf strikes an ideal balance between elegance, durability, and comfort. Used across the majority of our men's and women's range — in black, dark brown, chestnut, cognac, and navy.

• Grain & Smoothness Very closely spaced hair pores produce a smooth, uniform surface with little visible coarse texture.
• Softness & Flexibility Supple and pliable from the outset, offering a comfortable break-in period and a fit that improves with every wear.
• Durability Despite its fine weight, the dense fibre structure gives high tensile strength — tear-resistant and suited to significant daily use.
• Polishability The smooth surface takes polish readily and achieves a deep, sustained shine with consistent care.
• Patina Full-grain calf leather ages gracefully, developing a rich individual patina that reflects the wearer's use over years.
• Breathability Natural porous structure allows the foot to breathe, preventing excessive moisture buildup during long wear.

Pebble grain calf — also known as printed, Scotch-grain, or embossed calfskin — is produced by using heat and pressure to stamp a raised, pebbled pattern onto the surface of calfskin, creating a three-dimensional effect that acts as a natural shield against scratches and abrasions.

The result is a material that is rugged yet refined. A matte to semi-shiny surface that moves easily between business and casual contexts — equally at home with heavy denim or a textured suit.

• Scratch Resistance The raised, random texture makes scratches, scuffs, and creases far less visible than on smooth calf — ideal for daily wear.
• Water Resistance The dense printed finish and protective top-coat make pebble grain more water-repellent than untreated smooth leather.
• Flexibility & Comfort Despite its thicker feel, high-quality pebbled calfskin remains pliable and conforms to the foot with wear.
• Low Maintenance The texture conceals minor dirt and imperfections without requiring frequent polishing to maintain its appearance.
• Shape Retention The stamping process compresses the fibres, making the leather better at holding its form over the long term.

Fine grain calf leathers are derived from the hides of young cattle, typically under six months to a year old. Highly regarded for their exceptionally fine grain, soft hand, and durability, they are the material of choice for shoes where the leather itself must do the talking.

• Suppleness & Feel Exceptionally soft, pliable, and lightweight compared to adult cowhide. Moulds to the shape of the foot for a precise, comfortable fit from early in the shoe's life.
• Grain Densely packed fibres create a smooth surface with pores barely detectable to the eye — a luxurious finish that rewards close attention.
• Durability Despite its refinement, fine grain calf is strong and resistant to wear, suited to both daily use and formal occasions.
• Patina Full-grain fine calf ages beautifully, developing a rich, individual character that deepens with every year of wear.