GLOSSARY

Blake Stitch

A method of shoe construction in which the outer sole is stitched directly to the insole, bypassing the welt. Invented in 1856 by Lyman Reed Blake, this technique produces a lighter, more flexible shoe with a cleaner profile. It is the dominant construction method in Italian shoemaking.

Blanket Stitch

A stitch used to reinforce the edge of thick materials. In shoemaking it is used as a decorative and functional finish on raw leather edges — visible on hand-stitched apron seams and moccasin constructions.

Box Calf

A high-quality leather made from calfskin tanned with chromium salts, characterised by a fine, regular crease pattern produced by boarding. Box calf is prized for its smooth, consistent surface and its ability to hold a deep polish. It is the material of choice for formal dress shoes. Calfskin inherently shapes and moulds to the foot with wear.

Brogues

The word brogue originates in Scotland, where the original shoe had perforations to allow water to drain as the wearer crossed wet terrain. Today the brogue is a purely decorative detail — a pattern of perforations and serrated edging applied to the upper using pinking shears or a gimping tool. Broguing appears across Oxford, Derby, and boot styles.

Cordovan

An equine leather derived from the fibrous flat muscle — known as the shell — beneath the hide on the rump of the horse. Named after the city of Córdoba, Spain, where it was first prepared by Moorish craftsmen, cordovan is prized for its exceptional smoothness, resistance to creasing, and the distinctive depth of colour it achieves with age.

Derby

A Derby shoe is defined by its open lacing system: the quarters carrying the eyelets are sewn on top of the vamp, allowing the throat of the shoe to open more freely. This makes the Derby more accommodating across a wider range of foot shapes and volumes than the Oxford, while remaining appropriate across business and smart casual contexts.

Goodyear Welt

The Goodyear welt is the most enduring method of quality shoe construction. A strip of leather — the welt — is stitched around the perimeter of the insole, then the outsole is both cemented and stitched to this welt. The cavity between welt and insole is filled with cork, which compresses and moulds to the foot over time. The result is a shoe that can be resoled many times and improves with decades of wear. The machinery was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr.

Handlasting

The process of stretching the upper over the last entirely by hand, using only hand tools — no machinery. The maker draws the leather over the last form, working from the toe back, tensioning and tacking as they go. Handlasting produces a closer, more precise fit to the last shape and is the defining technique of bespoke shoemaking.

Heel Counter

A piece of firm leather — typically belly leather — inserted between the upper and the lining at the heel. The heel counter gives the back of the shoe its structure, preventing collapse and protecting the foot from lateral movement. In a well-made shoe it is stitched in place; in most mass-produced footwear it is simply glued.

Insole

The piece of leather your foot contacts inside the shoe. In all A. McDonald shoes we use a Rendenbach leather insole, approximately 2.8 mm thick. This insole absorbs moisture, is fully flexible, and moulds to the exact shape of the foot over time. In most production footwear, a form of recycled cardboard or synthetic board is used in its place.

Instep

The arched middle portion of the foot between the toes and the ankle — specifically its upper surface. In shoemaking, instep height is one of the critical measurements that determines fit across the throat of the shoe. High instep volume is one of the most common reasons customers cannot find footwear that is simultaneously comfortable and correctly proportioned.

Kidskin

A soft, thin leather made from the skin of young goats. Kidskin is lighter and finer-grained than most bovine leathers, making it a preferred choice for women's footwear where suppleness and a close fit to the foot are paramount.

Last

A three-dimensional form — traditionally carved from hardwood, now typically cast in high-density plastic — shaped to approximate the human foot. The last dictates every critical dimension of the finished shoe: length, width, depth, heel height, and toe shape. In bespoke shoemaking, a unique last is carved for each client and retained for all future commissions. Our ready-to-wear range is built across four lasts, each designed to address a specific combination of foot width and toe volume.

Monk Strap

A shoe closed by one or two straps and buckles rather than laces. The monk strap sits between the Oxford and the Derby in terms of formality — more structured than an open Derby, slightly less formal than a fully closed Oxford. The double monk is the more contemporary of the two variations and remains a mainstay of the well-dressed professional wardrobe.

Oak Bark Tanning

The oldest surviving method of leather tanning, using tannins extracted from the bark of oak trees. The process is slow — taking up to fourteen months per hide — and produces a dense, firm leather of exceptional durability, used primarily for outsoles, insoles, and stiffeners. Oak bark tanned soles are the standard in traditionally constructed Goodyear welted shoes.

Oxford

The most formal of all laced shoe styles, defined by its closed lacing system: the quarters are stitched beneath the vamp, pulling the two sides of the throat together in a clean, unbroken line. The Oxford is the standard of formal dress and the benchmark by which all other laced shoes are measured.

Toe Puff

A piece of stiffened leather inserted between the lining and the upper at the toe. The toe puff holds the shape of the toe box, protects the toes from impact, and creates a consistent silhouette through the life of the shoe. In bespoke work, the toe puff is cut and shaped by hand to complement the precise profile of the last.

Vamp

The front section of the shoe upper — any piece of leather forward of the lace line. The shape and cut of the vamp determines much of the shoe's visual character: a long vamp produces an elongated, elegant silhouette; a short vamp creates a rounder, more casual proportion.

Vegetable Tanning

The most traditional of all tanning methods, and the only one that produces leather with the depth of character that improves through use. The process uses tannin — a natural substance found in tree bark, leaves, and other plant matter — to transform raw hide into stable, durable leather. The process takes weeks to months, compared to hours for chrome tanning.

Vegetable-tanned leather absorbs the traces of wear and use over time, developing an individual patina that cannot be replicated. It contains no toxic substances, is free from heavy metals and azo-dyes, and — because it is tanned with entirely natural compounds — it can be composted at the end of its life. The hides used come exclusively from animals raised for the food industry; no animal is raised for its skin alone.

Welt

A strip of leather stitched around the perimeter of the shoe, connecting upper, insole, and outsole. The welt is the structural heart of Goodyear welted construction — it is what makes resoling possible, and what gives this method of construction its longevity. A hand-stitched welt, sewn entirely without machinery, is the mark of the highest level of bespoke work.