May 04, 2017
The Complete Shoe Making Process: Part 3
All custom made shoes start with foot/leg measurements. The outline of the foot and corresponding measurements are drawn onto a sheet of paper.
A measurement of the foot length is taken with a measuring stick. Measurements of the joint, arch and long heel are then taken. These measurements are then transferred to a last. A last is chosen from our last library or made that corresponds to the client's measurements and stylistic requirements. The Last model can be either shaped by hand from a block of Birch by a last maker or an existing last can be modified to correspond to the client's measurements.
Historically, lasts were typically made from hardwoods and cast iron because these materials retain their shape, even when in contact with wet materials (like leather) and subjected to the mechanical stresses of stretching and shaping shoes on them. Today, wooden lasts are generally used for bespoke shoemaking.
Lasts come in many styles and sizes, depending on the exact job they are designed for. Common variations include simple one-size lasts used for repairing soles and heels, durable plastic lasts used in modern mass production, and custom-made lasts used in the making of bespoke footwear. Though a last is made approximately in the shape of a human foot, the precise shape is tailored to the kind of footwear is made. For example, a boot last would be designed to hug the instep for a close fit. Modern last shapes are typically designed using dedicated computer-aided design software.
The materials used in modern lasts should be strong enough to withstand the forces of mass production machinery, such as that applied by pullover machines when bottoming the shoe, and must also be able to hold tacks (known as "lasting tacks"), which are used to hold shoe parts together temporarily before the sole is added. Although hardwoods satisfy these criteria, modern lasts, especially those used by mass production factories, are often made from high-density polyethene plastic, which allows for many tack holes before needing repair. Such plastics also have the benefit that they can be recycled and remoulded when they wear out.
Custom made / bespoke shoemakers, often use lasts that are specifically designed to the proportions of individual customers' feet. Made from various modern materials, they don't need to withstand the pressures of mass production machinery, but they must be able to handle constant tacking and pinning, and the wet environment associated with stretching and shaping materials such as leather.
If you're interested in finding out more about the shoemaking process perhaps consider our shoemaking course.