Vegetable tanned leather
  Vegetable tanned leather, using only natural tannins, has no negative environmental impact.
 •  The tanning method is ancient and requires skilled craftsmen, making vegetable tanned leather products more prestigious.
•  Due to the careful tanning process and the natural tannins, vegetable tanned leather develops a rich and beautiful patina and actually gets better with time and use. It doesn’t crack or dry out and thus has a very long lifespan.
•  It has an earthy and natural tone and smell.
•  The vegetable tanned leather is initially a bit stiff and has to be broken in to become fully flexible and functional.
•  The colours from vegetable tanning are not as livid as in chrome tanning and darken over time.
•  Vegetable tanned leather takes 30-60 days to produce, making the products generally more expensive.
Chrome tanned leather 
•  Chrome tanning is quick and cheap and can be easily automated and achieved in one single day. Chrome tanned products are thus cheaper and more abundant than vegetable tanned leather products.
•  The colours of the leather remain unchanged during the product’s entire lifespan.
•  It is thinner and softer than vegetable tanned leather.

•  The process of chrome tanning creates toxic wastewater that has a detrimental environmental impact, especially in the developing world.

•  Chrome tanned products neither wears well nor lasts very long and can crack after a few months of use.

•  Chrome tanned products don't appear very natural and often carry a chemical smell.
While vegetable tanned leather does take longer to produce, in a process requiring the care of skilled craftsmen,  making for a more expensive product, the tradition and handmade process add to the richness and the exclusivity of vegetable tanned leather, in stark contrast to the mass-produced chrome tanned leather. It also adds to vegetable tanned leather products impressive ageing and longevity, whereas the chrome tanned products will wear badly and crack sooner rather than later.

* Text source :
 *Image : Castello Davarg. Texas USA

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Finding the right leather for your shoes is an ongoing quest .

Step by step guide:  patternmaking
Step by step guide: patternmaking

Pattern making is the process of drawing on the last and making the pattern pieces for the upper, heel, sole, insole and stiffeners.  The first step in making the upper pattern is to create a forme which is a blueprint of the last size, shape and heel.
Chestnut tanned soles and insoles
Chestnut tanned soles and insoles

Chestnut tanned soles create a richer darker coloured sole leather, tanned with hardwood chestnut extract. The soles are tanned for a longer period in the tan to improve durability resistance and edge finishing.
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This sizing chart is designed as a comparison to commonly used sizing systems . The systems differ in what they measure , what unit of measure they use and where the size 0 is positioned . The english system for mens shoes that i use is based on the length of the last measured in barleycorn 1/3inch . If you are uncertain of your size and how it translates to my sizing system please email and we will endeavour to assess your size .


English 3.5 4 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5 7 7.5 8 8.5
European 35 36 37 37.5 38 38.5 39 39.5 40.5 41 42 42.5
Australian 5 6 6.5 7 7.5 8 8.5 9 9.5 10 10.5 11
U.S 5 6 7 7.5 8 8.5 9 9.5 10 10.5 11 11.5
Japanese 22 22.5 23.5 23 23.5 24 25 25.5 26 26.5 27 27.5


English Australia 4 4.5 5.5 6 6.5 7 8 8.5 9 10 10.5 11 12 12.5 13
U.S 6 6.5 7 7.5 8 8.5 9 9.5 10 10.5 11 11.5 12 12.5 13
European 38 38.5 39.5 40 40.5 41 42 42.5 43 44 44.5 45 46 46.5 47
Japanese 24 24.5 25 25.5 26 26.5 27 27.5 28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5 31
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