The first step in making the upper pattern is to create a forme which is a blueprint of the last size, shape and heel height. The form transforms the 3-dimensional shoe shape to a  2-dimensional piece of card. Here the upper pattern design lines can be drawn. From this drawing, you can cut the pieces that make the upper pattern. For example, these pieces may be the vamp, back-quarter, toe cap, heel cap and lining pieces.

Once you have cut your pattern pieces a test upper is cut from scrap leather to create a test shoe or Pullover. This test shoe is pulled over the last. The test shoe tells the maker if the pattern pieces fit correctly to the last. This test shoe is then used for the 1st customer fitting to determine if the pattern and last fit the customer's foot.